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Jewelled Textiles: Gold and Silver Embellished Cloth of India

Vandana Bhandari (Author) Laila Tyabji (Foroward) Nandita Bhardwaj (Editor) Dipa Chaudhuri (Editor)

Textiles embellished with gold and silver have been desired and cherished worldwide since antiquity. In the Indian subcontinent, too, the use of metal to enhance the value and beauty of cloth is part of an ancient tradition. Jewelled Textiles - Gold And Silver Embellished Cloth of India presents a rich selection of textiles and dresses ornamented with precious metals-gold and silver. These luxurious and often opulent textiles have always been associated with wealth, beauty, supremacy, ceremony and divinity in the subcontinent. Gold and silver embroidery in India is remarkable for the manifold styles in which the threads are manipulated to produce results on cloth surfaces, enhancing and ornamenting the character of the textile. The raw materials, techniques of surface application and the final effects thus created are unique to different regions in the country where the embroidery techniques and printing with precious metals are classified by the local terminology.

Techniques by which metals are applied to textile surface like Kamdani or Badla in Lucknow, Tilla in Jammu and Kashmir and parts of Western India, Danka and Gota Patti in Rajasthan, Zardozi and Vasli in Bhopal, Hyderabad, Lucknow, Delhi and other centres in Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan and Gujarat and Mukke Ka Kaam in Rajasthan and Gujarat and Varak from different parts of the country are described in detail in the book.

These techniques are illustrated with examples of skillfully executed pieces from museums and private collections.

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About the authors
In the spotlight

Vandana Bhandari

During a journey of over three decades as an academician, Vandana Bhandari has worked as an educator, author, and administrator with an active social engagement in the fashion and textile sector. She has held the position of Dean of Academics at the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), and is currently a professor there.  Published in journals and magazines, she has authored and compiled several books on fashion and textiles including: Celebrating Dreams: Weddings in India (1998), Textiles and Crafts of India: Arunachal Pradesh, Assam and Manipur (1998), Textiles and Jewellery of India – Traditions in Rajasthan (2004); Jewelled Textiles: Gold and Silver embellished Cloth of India (2014).  Dr Bhandari is the Project Coordinator at NIFT of a national level project titled ‘USTTAD’, which has a collaborative approach for sustaining livelihoods and craft heritage and creates valuable connections between designers and master artisans.

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Laila Tyabji

Laila Tyabji, the guest editor of this volume, is a freelance designer, writer, and founder member and Chairperson of Dastkar, a Society for crafts & Craftspeople, established in 1981. Helping craftspeople, especially women, learn to use their own inherent skills as a means of employment, earning and independence is the crux of the Dastkar programme. Laila’s own speciality is textile-based crafts, especially embroidery and appliqué, using the traditional craft skill and design tradition as a base for products with a contemporary usage and appeal.

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Bibliographic information

Title Jewelled Textiles: Gold and Silver Embellished Cloth of India
Format Hardcover
Date published: 01.04.2015
Edition 1st. ed.
Language: English
isbn 9789383202003
length 214p., Illustrations; Colour; 34cm.